Showing posts with label NYC. Show all posts
Showing posts with label NYC. Show all posts

Friday, August 13, 2010

NYC vs. SF in the Movies

Chef K and I are in the habit of watching a lot of movies, one or two per night. With the move coming up, I've become hypersensitive to all movies set in either New York or San Francisco -- and it's gotten me thinking a lot about how movies precondition our experience of place, how they color and even guide our emotional connection to particular sites or cities.

New York, of course, is one of filmmakers' all-time favorite locations, as evidenced by this Wikipedia page that lists all the movies that have been shot in the city by year. Even before I lived in New York, I developed a cinematic affection for it through such classic 80s/90s movies as Splash, Ghost, Three Men and a Baby, Big, Big Business and Look Who's Talking. In just the past year, I've also watched French Connection, all three Godfathers, both Ghostbusters, Basketball Diaries, Moscow on the Hudson, Wall Street, When Harry Met Sally..., Carlito's Way, Die Hard: With a Vengeance, American Psycho, Julie & Julia and the Taking of Pelham 1, 2, 3 (that's 15 movies!), all of which trigger my nostalgia and fondness for NYC.




Recently, I've had an insatiable urge to watch Vertigo over and over. With its scenes at the Legion of Honor, Mission Dolores, Palace of the Arts and Golden Gate Bridge, you'd be hard-pressed to find a more quintessential movie about San Francisco, and the swooning romance of the film has me rosily associating the city with all my favorite things in design -- pencil skirt suits (worn by Madeleine/Judy and ripped off wonderfully by Galliano in the 90s), Bertoia chairs (in Midge's studio) and other pieces of classic mid-century furniture (in Scottie's apartment). It's like I can hear Herrmann's classic score whenever I set foot on the top of Nob Hill.




Of all the other movies set in SF, of which there are fewer than New York, I've only seen the Steve McQueen cops-n-cars film Bullitt (prominently showcasing Nob Hill, like Vertigo), Dirty Harry, the Joy Luck Club and the Maltese Falcon. Any others I should try?

The Big Announcement... Addendum

I was just thinking that perhaps I should provide some background on the move. What is happening is that I've decided to transfer from my design program at Pratt to one at California College of the Arts. There are a number of reasons for this decision, some of which concern a practical desire to broaden the kind of design education I'm getting (and frankly, dissatisfaction with Pratt), and some of which concern a personal desire to go back to California, my home state. For an entire year, I've been weighing these two impulses, and even now, after I've made the decision, I'm seesawing wildly between cautious excitement and complete panic.

At the moment, the panic is winning out, unfortunately. I feel a pit in my stomach as the reality of moving day gets closer and closer. Not only am I full of angst about leaving New York, a city I love yet somehow felt was the right time to leave, but I am worried about Chef K, who is supposed to follow me once he gets a job in SF but hasn't found anything yet. And I am worried about leaving my friends at Pratt, an unbelievably special group of people that I was blessed to meet, and honestly feel like I'm tempting fate now to leave. On top of it all, I'm worried that I'm deep-sixing my career, going to some college everyone gets confused with CalArts, or Academy of the Arts, or Art Institute, and going for a second bachelor's to boot. What am I doing?? Am I crazy?

At the bottom of it, I guess that I never wanted to wonder "what if," that I believe there is a bigger world out there in design than what I've experienced so far. Hopefully, if I always hang on to what's in my heart and always ask if I'm staying true to myself, things will turn out OK. I've always told other people that -- and now I need to tell myself. The truth is, though, that I'm terrified.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

San Francisco, Part 1: SF Architecture

So, in light of my impending move, I flew out to SF this past weekend to try to find an apartment. Naturally, the real estate whore in me couldn't help but delight in tramping from house to house comparing layouts, kitchen renos, views, laundry amenities and so forth. Like a house tour -- except for free! But considerably more stressful. And nerve-wracking and exhausting. Ha.

Anyway, since the city is completely new to me, I was rather daunted by -- and then rather enjoyed -- plotting out bus routes and getting to know one neighborhood after another. The blog Overstated once posted this cheeky guide to SF-NY neighborhood equivalencies, and I was eager to see if any of them were right. In all, I had the opportunity to visit Potrero Hill, the Mission, SOMA, Hayes Valley and Nob Hill. Not too shabby for 2.5 days.

After nearly a decade living in New York, the most notable thing about all these neighborhoods was, of course, the architecture. Instead of being built of brick, brownstone and limestone (Manhattan, Brooklyn) or siding (Queens, parts of Brooklyn), most houses in SF are painted, and in a million different pastel shades at that. Most are also Victorian in style, although very different from the Victorian brownstones you see in New York -- for one thing, there is always a garage on the ground floor (or as we would say in New York, the "garden floor"). The Italianate and Neoclassical styles seem to largely be absent from the areas I visited -- but I should probably consult a textbook and/or get to know the city better before making that kind of assertion.



In the end, whaddaya know? I just signed a lease on an apartment in Potrero Hill, a neighborhood that's conveniently close to my new school, California College of the Arts -- and that, according to Overstated, is the equivalent of guess which neighborhood?? That's right, Brooklyn Heights. I had to laugh out loud when I reread the list after my trip. Yeah, Potrero Hill is like Brooklyn Heights. But without the tourists or the traffic. And on a big hill. Maybe more equivalent to a little town on Long Island. Again, on a big hill.


About those other neighborhood equivalencies -- here's what I would say based on one short trip. Please don't hesitate to correct me.

The Mission = Williamsburg, without a doubt. Ugh. (Sorry Billyburgers.)


SOMA = LIC waterfront, mixed with Financial District.


Hayes Valley = Cobble Hill (although Kaii called it "precious" from the pictures... is Cobble Hill "precious"?)


Nob Hill = ?? This one stumps me. Help me out, folks!

Homage to Brooklyn

Apropos of the last post, just thought I'd share some gratuitous photos of my beloved Brooklyn from this past month.

The view of lower Manhattan from my roof deck:


Flowers on the Brooklyn Heights Promenade at dusk:


The farmer's market at Borough Hall:


Wrought iron door on the bank building at Montague and Clinton (this entrance is on Pierrepont):

The Big Announcement...

So, a few posts ago, I alluded to a big announcement. I've been putting it off for a while, but now I suppose I should just get it over with.

I'm moving to San Francisco!!

To understand what huge import this has for me, you have to know what New York means to me. It's always been the city of my dreams, the city I never questioned I would move to, the city of my childhood -- when Christmases meant walking down Fifth Avenue, going to Rockefeller Center to see the tree, shopping at Bloomingdales and making the yearly pilgrimage to MoMA -- as well as the city of my young adulthood.

I've lived here for nine years now, not counting two summers during college -- and in four of the five boroughs to boot. I can vividly remember all my homes, and all the memories connected to them, both good and bad. First, my grandparents' house in the Bronx, just below Riverdale. The long subway ride on the 1, the smell of Italian anise cookies being baked in the Stella's Cookies factory by the 238th St stop, the walk home, past Riverdale Diner and McDonald's. The old house full of stuff. Just stuff. The black vinyl couch from the 60s, the screaming argyle wallpaper by the stairs, coupons, magazines and old mail. The Goddess of Mercy statuette in the study and the smell of incense burning in front of it. The sticky kitchen, and my grandmother, always sitting at the worn enamel-topped table, reading the paper or listening to 1010 WINS. Even when I told her not to wait up for me, and I'd been out all night with some boy.

I remember the day she died. It was shortly after July 4, and I came back from a day wandering around SoHo window-shopping and listening to pounding trance on my CD player. My uncle met me at the gate and told me quietly what had happened. This was the summer before I graduated. I came back to the house afterward, staying there through a hot summer (sometimes sleeping in the basement on a camping cot) and 9/11, a day when a friend's phone call woke me and I turned on the TV in shock. All was quiet in the Bronx, except for a faint smell of burning and more cars than usual parked in the streets.

In November 2001, I moved to Queens, a quiet neighborhood for a quiet phase in my life. I was so frugal in those days -- just a baggie of Crispix for breakfast, a cup of soup for lunch, maybe some homemade lentil stew and an apple for dinner. I went to the Dominican or Korean grocery stores on the weekend and once in a while for all-you-can-eat lunch buffet at Jackson Diner. Once, when friends were in town and we were riding the 7 back to the apartment at 3 am, I took my house keys out in anticipation and promptly dropped them in a crack between the subway seats. I had to ask a night watchman on his way home from work, carrying his dry cleaning, to use one of his coat hangers to fish them out (and convince him I wasn't crazy).

A year after, my wonderful roommate Soni announced he was buying a place of his own, so I tried out that quintessential city fixture -- Craiglist -- to find a new place. And I did, on Broadway and 150th St. Suffice it to say, loud roommate sex, unannounced long-term house guests, and one helluva neurotic cat pushed me out in just one year. For the next three, I lived about two blocks away with two of my best friends from college, Angelica and Eliot. What years those were -- years when I woke up and got to know New York in a different way than before, when each block became ingrained with memories of friends, dates, brunches, dinners, blurry nights and funny incidents. I made some close friends -- the so-called "Js," or four other girls with names all starting in J (except Marisa!) -- and we sure painted the town red. One Halloween we dressed up as the Spice Girls; for another, we hailed a limousine when we couldn't find a taxi and drove through Times Square with our heads poking out of the sun roof.

Home, however, was another matter -- Eliot and I later agreed that when we finally moved, it was like a cloud lifted from our heads. We were so miserable we didn't even know it. Aggressive kids hassled me on the streets; crackhead arrests, street fights and the sound of gunshots in the night were never a surprise; and toward the end, water flowed down the walls, and ConEd rushed over to tell us that our gas and electricity lines were crossed and the whole building should probably be condemned. Yay for home!

Finally I took the plunge and bought an apartment in Brooklyn, a borough I had never really visited and never thought about. Consequently it was a surprise when I tucked a map into my bag and emerged from the F train into Cobble Hill. I was stunned. This was my dream neighborhood, and I had never even known it existed. Although I didn't get that first apartment on Amity Street, nor the next one on Remsen, I knew from the moment I stepped in the door on Orange that I was home.

These last five years have been fabulous. A dream come true. From my little nest in the upper Heights, I feel like I have the world at my fingertips. Hundreds of times I've walked around the corner and down Henry Street to the bodega-that-has-everything, the meat shop, the sushi place, the mom-and-pop video store, the wine shop. Beyond that, the street slopes down and I have a choice of turning onto Montague, or farther, heading to Cobble Hill. On a really nice day, Chef K and I walk all the way to Carroll Gardens, preferably to Frankie's Spuntino, one of the few restaurants he approves of, to have their fresh pasta (the spaghetti with fava beans and that old warhorse, the cavatelli with sausage and browned sage butter, are to die for). Summer nights mean a drink outside at Abilene, or maybe going to Smith Street and visiting Cubana Cafe, Bar Great Harry or Clover Club. By day, we might indulge in some trout or scallops and shrimp from Fish Tales, or cheese from Stinky Brooklyn, or even bike down to Fairway. The official Saturday ritual, of course, is waking up and ordering breakfast from Park Plaza, watching a movie, and then heading to the Borough Hall farmer's market. So many memories.

I didn't particularly mean to write a long essay. The short version, I suppose, is that I will miss New York very much. It's the best city in the world. And I hope I like San Francisco even half as much.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

A Gulf Oil Spill Benefit... Catered by Green Table!

Not too long ago, we had an excellent night out at the invitation of Chef K's friend, Brent, who is the award-winning chef of the small but excellent restaurant Green Table in Chelsea Market. His boss, Mary Cleaver, owner of the Cleaver Company and Green Table, was hosting a charity event benefiting the fishermen affected by the BP spill at the downtown event space 632 Hudson.

Brent got us in gratis to keep him company, but as it turned out, he was stuck in the venue's tiny kitchen making hors-d'oeuvres all night (seriously, three people working side by side in a space no bigger than 7' x 6'). So it was quite sad he couldn't join us. On the other hand, we did very much benefit from his sweat and toil -- his hors-doevres were delicious!

If you haven't been to Green Table, I highly recommend it. Brent has a light but sure touch with fresh, seasonal ingredients, and a special talent for handling seafood that comes, perhaps, from growing up in New Orleans (so the Gulf spill is an issue close to his heart). When Chef K and I visited the restaurant with Brent's wife Melissa some time ago, his crab soup three ways (bisque, gumbo and Southeast Asian -- with cilantro) was amazing, as was his crab cake (maybe the best I've ever had), scallops with fava beans and soft-shell crab. Such a treat.

At the benefit, we enjoyed mini crab cakes, fried green tomatoes, pickled okra wrapped in prosciutto and chopped shrimp and vegetables in small, crispy corn cups (see third photo below), among other treats. Mint juleps and beers were handed out in vintage Mason jars, and a live band played old-timey Southern music. There was even a whole shrimp peeling station -- very cool, although a little too much effort for both of us. We sat quietly and enjoyed the scene.



Saturday, July 24, 2010

Revisiting the Frying Pan

A long, long time ago, in my wild days of youth (just kidding), I went to the Frying Pan once or twice. All I can remember is that it was really packed, all the time, but hey, during the summer it's hard to beat a two-story barge floating in the Hudson, with a 360-degree bar and the sunset in the background.

A couple days ago, Andrew, a fellow intern at Martha Stewart, where I'm working this summer, suggested we go for happy hour someplace close by. "How about the Frying Pan?" I guess it'd been so long since I'd gone that I didn't really have any idea where it was. Imagine my surprise when I realized it's right across the highway from Martha HQ -- we have the perfect aerial view from the West windows!

Despite the horrendous crowds, it didn't disappoint. Andrew and I sat at a tiny table on the Northern side and had a couple beers looking back toward the city (that's our building there below) -- and at one point, some kayak polo players. It was a beautiful summer evening.



Weird Street Art aka Why I Love New York

Seen on the streets of NYC recently...

Crocheted bike, Essex just above Delancey, July 18:


Asphalt and broken glass, unused bit of street just east of the York St F stop, July 22:

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Report: New Rooftop Bars

Last night Marisa and I went on a little reconnaissance mission for our friend Jocelyn's bachelorette party, checking out two rooftop bars as possible locales for the party. (Tough job, I know!)

First up we went to the Top of the Strand, at the Strand Hotel on 37th. It was smaller than I had imagined, but the view of the Empire State Building was definitely impressive and the cocktails tasty. Importantly, it wasn't too crowded, the vibe was nice and casual, and the people there weren't too douchey -- they seemed like an older foreign tourist crowd, on the whole.




The second place we went to was Glass Bar at the Hotel Indigo in Chelsea, somewhat of a victim to the whole "trendy" thing that is a pet peeve for me and a magnet for button-up-shirt banker types who stare at you like you don't belong. A pretty fun place, though, with fun music and room to dance. And fans to circulate the air on a hot summer night!



Monday, July 12, 2010

NYAFF: Opening Night

NYAFF Part 3: We made it to the theater in the nick of time, snagging two seats together in the first 10 rows. Two minutes later and we would have been looking for separate seats somewhere in the back. Whew.

Although Ip Man 2 was quite the disappointment for me (Chef K enjoyed the action but really, I haven't watched such bad acting by white guys in an Asian film since... well, since a long time ago), the whole opening night experience was still totally worth it because director Simon Yam and choreographer/co-star/Hong Kong kung fu legend Sammo Hung made brief appearances to address the audience in Cantonese. (Yam is on the left and Hung on the right in these pictures, and that's festival producer Grady Hendrix in his trademark pink tux.)



I love the NYAFF. I remember trudging to the Anthology Film Archives on 2nd and 2nd when they first started out, standing in line in the summer heat to walk into a theater with no AC (!!). The seats were horrifically uncomfortable and the producers still personally sold concessions like shrimp chips outside. I'm so proud of them now -- they really made it into the big leagues. :)

Dining at A Voce

NYAFF Part 2: After surveying the new Lincoln Center look, I walked up to the Walter Reade box office and picked up my tix for the opening night film, Ip Man 2. It was about 6:45 for what I thought was a 7:30 showing, and I was quite proud of myself for showing up early. Mystifyingly, however, there did not appear to be a line -- contrary to usual. When I casually asked where the line was, the box office guy informed me the showing was for *9:30* not 7:30. Gulp.

Chef K was understandably somewhat miffed that he'd cut short a bike ride to meet me at the theater, but guess what, I'm glad he did, because as a result we decided to go to A Voce in Columbus Circle for dinner before the movie!!

Chef K's friend Zach is a sous at A Voce, and he definitely showed us a good time. Over two glasses of exceedingly delicious champagne (really, too good -- I ended up with a headache during the movie), we first dug into this sampler of appetizers he sent out (l to r: cauliflower with almonds and golden raisins, pickled ramps with pecorino, roasted cipollini and roasted beets with pistachios), plus two fluffy pieces of rosemary ciabatta with some kind of creamy ricotta spread sprinkled with olive oil:




Then the entrees came -- porcini-filled raviolini (absolutely delicious) and scallops with a cauliflower puree (and I forget what that orange stuff was in the picture -- I think a very light citrus sauce -- this was Zach's recommendation, not even on the menu):


Finally, Zach sent out a trio of desserts -- (clockwise from top) two types of ice cream (I think they were hazelnut and a delicate sour cherry), vanilla pannacotta with mashed strawberries and crunchy fennel, and warm vanilla cream-filled sugared Tuscan donuts with Valrhona dark chocolate sauce:


Quite a feast, and not one I'll soon forget. The Central Park views were just as amazing as everyone says, by the way. Thanks, Zach!

Visiting the New Lincoln Center

En route to the 2010 New York Asian Film Festival (EIGHTH year in a row -- woot!), I just had to pause and take in all the changes that Lincoln Center and its surrounding buildings have undergone in the past year. As a Brooklynite, I hardly make it into Manhattan, let alone above Houston these days (except for work), so it was my first time seeing the renovations in person.




Alice Tully has become quite the hip hang-out, with seemingly impromptu street performances happening and crowds gathering to watch them (first pic via Wikipedia). Love the way the triangular amphitheater juts its back into the sidewalk, both creating a separate visual and aural space for performance and challenging pedestrians to come around to the other side. Plus it blocks the sun out. I know Ourossof wasn't the biggest fan of the Lincoln Center reno as a whole, but I say kudos to them for this part at least.

Down 65th, I also took in the new South Plaza -- including the dramatic lawn-roof on top of Jonathan Benno's (former exec chef at Per Se) new restaurant under construction -- and the new Juilliard and Walter Reade (the venue for NYAFF).


Walking Over the Manhattan Bridge

Chef K's friend Derek was in town a few weekends ago, so we spent a leisurely morning and afternoon browsing both the Brooklyn Borough Hall and Union Square Greenmarkets, then lunching at Pain Quotidien. By the time we finally split up, I was hungry again, so Chef K and I walked down to Ippudo for an early dinner before heading home. It was such a nice evening, though, that we just kept walking and walking and walking... until it didn't really make any sense to get on the subway at all. 

Just as we started getting to Chinatown, Chef K suggested we walk home over the Manhattan Bridge. Though I moaned and whined in the beginning, I was really happy we did. It was a first for me (in nine years of living in NYC!), and quite the treat. The view of graffiti-ed buildings, so colorful; the river with a beautiful sunset, the Brooklyn Bridge and our home in the distance; and the throaty rumble of the train nearby all reminded me of why I love this city so much.